History of Leather Culture and BDSM: Where It All Comes From

By The LeatherWerks Daddy

Leather isn’t just gear—it’s a story. A legacy. A protest. A home. When you pull on that harness or lace up those boots, you’re not just dressing the part. You’re stepping into a culture forged in rebellion, shaped by desire, and bound together by brotherhood, pain, and pride.

Let’s take a ride through the winding roads of leather history—Daddy will drive.

Post-War Beginnings: The Rise of the Biker Leatherman

The story starts after World War II. Thousands of men returned from war changed—physically, emotionally, sexually. The rigid norms of post-war domestic life didn’t fit everyone, especially not the men who found intimacy, power, and love in the arms of their brothers-in-arms.

Out of this dissonance came motorcycle clubs—a way to chase freedom and brotherhood on the open road. Leather was chosen for practical reasons: it was durable, protective, and masculine. But it quickly became a symbol of identity, a uniform for outsiders. And within some of these clubs, gay men found each other—bonded not just by bikes, but by secret desires.

These clubs were tight-knit and rule-heavy, but offered freedom, community, and erotic energy that couldn’t be found in the buttoned-up mainstream.

1950s–60s: Leather Bars, Secret Signals, and the Birth of a Subculture

Gay leather bars emerged in cities like San Francisco, New York, Chicago, and LA—hidden sanctuaries for men craving raw masculinity, dominance, and control. These weren’t your average watering holes. These were dark, gritty spaces where coded looks and body language replaced small talk. If you were in leather, you belonged.

Bars like the Tool Box in SF and The Gold Coast in Chicago weren’t just nightlife—they were cultural hubs. They provided safe spaces where BDSM could be explored openly—well, as openly as possible in a time when same-sex activity could still get you arrested.

Out of necessity, these bars and clubs developed unspoken rules and etiquette to navigate desire without outing themselves. That unspoken protocol laid the groundwork for what would become leather tradition.

1970s: The Old Guard and Ritualized BDSM

The 1970s saw the solidification of what many call the Old Guard—a system of BDSM practice that emphasized discipline, hierarchy, and respect.

Think:

• Leather uniforms and polished boots
• Doms and subs with clearly defined roles
• Rituals for collaring, service, and submission
• Mentorship passed down from leatherman to boy

This wasn’t casual kink. It was a lifestyle, often compared to the military or martial arts in its structure and seriousness. And while not every leatherman followed this code, it shaped how many learned to play—especially in the gay scene.

The Old Guard emphasized earned leather—a collar or vest wasn’t just bought, it was given in recognition of service, submission, or commitment to the leather brotherhood. Leather wasn’t a look—it was a language.

The Hanky Code: Queer Innovation at Its Finest

By the mid-to-late ‘70s, men got tired of guessing what kind of play someone was into. So they invented the hanky code—a cheeky, brilliant, and sometimes hilariously specific color system worn in the back pocket to indicate kinks and roles.

Some classics:

• Black (right): You want to be flogged.
• Red (left): You’re ready to fist.
• Yellow (right): Yes, that means exactly what you think it does.

Flagging made cruising efficient, fun, and safer. And it helped solidify the deep connection between fashion, signaling, and consent in the leather world.

1980s–90s: AIDS, Activism, and Brotherhood

Then came the storm.

The AIDS epidemic decimated leather communities. Bars closed. Friends died. Lovers disappeared. But amid the grief, leathermen fought back. They didn’t hide. They marched, they fundraised, they cared for their sick, and they kept the culture alive.

The BDSM community—so often misunderstood and marginalized—became one of the earliest and most organized forces for safer sex education. Condoms, gloves, cleaning toys between scenes—these weren’t just suggestions. They were life-saving protocols.

Leather contests like IML (International Mr. Leather) became more than pageantry. Winners became spokespeople for education, outreach, and visibility. Leather, once underground, now had a platform.

2000s to Today: Evolution, Inclusion, and Revival

Leather culture isn’t static. In the 2000s, the community began to evolve—welcoming more identities, orientations, and expressions:

• Women, nonbinary, and trans people claimed space in leather scenes.
• Kinksters began mixing leather with latex, neoprene, rubber, and even puppy tails.
• Younger generations, raised on Tumblr and Twitter, challenged Old Guard rigidity while honoring its legacy.

And in cities across the world, leather bars, events, and clubs are still thriving. Folsom Street Fair, IML, MAL, and local leather contests continue the legacy of visibility, connection, and community-building.

Leather Isn’t Dead—It’s Alive in You

Wearing leather means more than just looking hot. It means remembering where we came from, respecting the codes that kept us safe when the world wanted us gone, and finding new ways to connect, evolve, and get dirty—together.

Whether you’re an Old Guard devotee or a new pup in your first hood, leather is for you. Just know the road that brought you here.

Glossary

• Old Guard: Traditional leather culture marked by rigid roles, protocol, and earned status.
• New Guard: A looser, more inclusive and individualistic approach to leather and kink.
• Leather Bar: A bar catering to leathermen and BDSM enthusiasts, often dress-coded and historic.
• Hanky Code: A color-coded system using handkerchiefs to flag kink preferences and roles.
• Flagging: The act of displaying your kink or role preference using colors or symbols.
• Earned Leather: Leather gear (e.g. vests, collars) given as recognition of service, submission, or community contribution.
• Protocol: Agreed-upon behavioral rules in BDSM dynamics—especially important in leather traditions.
• IML (International Mr. Leather): Annual competition and gathering celebrating leathermen and kink culture globally.
• Mentorship: A tradition where experienced players guide newcomers in technique, safety, and community ethics.